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A day in Malappuram

Roaring trucks, speeding rickshaws - these are the first impressions of my hometown, Malappuram. Here the day starts early. The wakeup call comes at around 5:00 in the morning when the mosques call people to pray and the temples play their devotional songs.

The air is fresh. The fragrance of moist earth wafts in the breeze. The tea is hot and the people here are glancing through the newspapers for some hot news. The tea shops are the hub of activities here.

Breakfast is served early. It is a regular sight to see young children in purdahs and musalman caps marching towards the madrassas with slates and books.

We are going to school

 

It is around 8:00 when the village ponds flourish. The water is usually pumped through a motor and someone sensibly cut across a water-lane system to the coconut and palm trees. So when humans bathe, the trees also get water.

The coconut climber with his kit sings around his political thoughts to an 80-year old grandma. Though she can barely hear, she pretends to be a good listener.

The children are back home from the madrassas. The buffaloes are taken out to graze. The auto rickshaws and jeeps start their day with routine trips. The office-goers are always in need of them as government buses are rare here.

Peacocks dance only when it rains. So do these buses - they rarely make successful trips without breaking down. They are aptly called 'Mayil-vahanam' or 'Peacock buses'.

 
I am too fit

 

The schools usually start around 10 'o' clock. Young men are a rare commodity here as most of them are away seeking their fortune in the middle-east. The rest are usually un-employed who start their day at the village gymnasiums or at Kalaris. They pass the rest of the day playing caroms along with a few gulf-returns who always look to narrate their tales to impress the others.

 

It's 11.00 a.m. I see the fishmonger cooing around. He knows exactly where he can get the best business. He always seems to be busy on his cell phone, talking to is colleagues at the harbor and getting regular updates on the sea conditions and the catch. [It's no wonder that Malappuram has the highest mobile phone subscription in Kerala.] He has developed the habit of feeding cats with tiny fishes. Dogs are rarely found here and cats are the usual household pet.

Naboothiri Illam

source: www.namboothiri.com

The traditional Hindu families here are usually the jewelers, money lenders, grocers and the temple priests. Most of them are commonly called Nairs and each village has its own Nair peedya (shop), Nair tea stall and a few Nair toddy shops too. The Nair men usually get together around the banyan tree in the temple courtyard.

The Hindus and Muslims here have a special bond and have great mutual respect for each other. Christians are few, known for their kindness at the schools and the hospitals.

It's noon...its calm and green. The kids usually spend the afternoons playing on the trees and plucking mangoes. Its lunchtime. With the crows cawing, guests are usually expected. Its time for the Mullahs and the Ustads to have lunch. Families take turns to provide them with one meal a day. At the school, its game time. The kids are seen dirtying their dresses in every possible way.

A day out (Peolpe of kerala)

Its time for a small nap.

its 3. I try to go out - into the town. the second business phase slowly begins with fresh fish coming. Every vehicle here has its own way  and it looks as if all the roads have been laid by their fathers. The stereos and the woofers make strange noises and they make sure everyone knows its a Pioneer audio system that's playing.

Slowly after buying their fresh catch, its time to go into the football fields. Matches have already been scheduled and patrolling jeeps and vehicles blare the day's matches from big speakers. Its a game of nerves and even though it doesn't matter who wins or loses, the spirit of competition provides a lot of entertainment for the village crowd. Football matches are never played in stadiums or grounds, but in fields - fields that yield rice at harvest, and after that yield great players. The money is usually pumped in by a few Gulf returns who in order to prove their worth, fall into the sponsorship trap.

A hidhu family ( Art by thomas)

Its around 6. Its time to clean the body and go to the Mosques. In traditional Hindu families, a beautiful scene is being played out as beautiful young women carry lit lamps around their Nalukettus (traditional homes) chanting 'Deepam, deepam'. After prayer, its news time. The radio and the television capture the attention.

While walking back home, one hears young kids mugging up their daily lessons - some religious and some academic, and the soft lullabies to put young ones to sleep.

Its early to rise, so its early to bed. Its a heavy and a happy dinner at homes where their sons have returned. For the rest, memories of their loved ones working hard in distant lands haunt them.

Machaan

More on Malappuram by the author - The Malappuram Chronicles

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